Hiking across Madeira

It’s March 2023, and we have both found a week we could take off work, so we did a quick Google search and landed on Madeira. This Portuguese island off the coast of Northern Africa is known as the Hawaii of Europe, or also as the flower island. And it’s also known as a great hiking destination! So we booked flights and 1.5 weeks after the idea came up, we got on a plane to this emerald island in the Atlantic Ocean.

Things to consider before you go

The climate first off. Madeira is very touristy, mainly because the weather is always pleasant, and temperatures don’t drop below 18°C. The wettest months are January through March, while the summer can be hot. We definitely would recommend to do the full hike in spring or autumn. We did the hike in March, with pleasant temperatures and only 1 day of rain.

Second is wildcamping. Most of the island is a protected nature reserve, and wildcamping is therefore prohibited. The government has provided some 20 places where you are allowed to camp, and you need to register online to get a camping permit. You have to know beforehand where you’d be camping on which night. We did register, but unfortunately there are limited places available and we could not book the spots that were along our planned itinerary. So we decided to wing it and book random camping spots, and hope that the rangers would be satisfied that we have at least a permit. In the end we did not encounter any rangers, and never had to show our permit. That said, it’s was still off-season and the fines are hefty, so probably be prepared.

We knew that finding cooking gas is a bit of a challenge. As we didn’t want to spend half a day hunting for gas, we brought our MSR Dragonfly, which runs on gasoline. From other hikers we heard that the decathlon in Funchal has gas canisters. One hiker got some at a hardware store in Funchal and we have seen gas canisters at the Gulp gas station in Caniçal (the punch through ones). We’ve checked the Continente supermarket in Machico and they don’t sell any.

Our day to day itinerary

We loosely based our itinerary on the MIUT, or Madeira Island Ultra Trail run, but we made some modifications here and there. The entire hike is 118km long and encompasses 6000 high meters. It took us 6 days (2 half days at the beginning and end, 5 full days in between).

Day 1: Machico to Ponta de São Lourenço. 16km, 750 hm.

As we arrived late on a Saturday night, we stayed in a hotel close to the airport in Machico. That also meant we could start our hiking trip from there, but you can also opt to take a bus or taxi to the peninsula and start from there.

In Machico there is a large supermarket that is open everyday from 8am to 10pm, so we could stock up on food. Our first day took us from Machico, through Caniçal to the peninsula of Ponta de São Lourenço. From the harbour you have to follow the main road for a bit, which is annoying, but doable. It’s relatively easy and the hike on the peninsula is popular, so it was crowded. For good reason, as the views are stunning. We camped at the designated campsite, but be aware; there is no water available and the toilets at the nearby bar are closed after hours. We also had a stormy night, and the stone wall offered little protection. As this is only a half day of walking, you could opt to continue from here. We saw some potential wildcamping sites along the coast.

Day 2: Ponta de São Lourenço to Lamaceiros. 27km, 1373 hm.

We woke up before sunrise and packed our things. The wind was so strong that we had a quick breakfast and no coffee, so we started hiking back the same way we came in. This early it was quiet, and it was great not to elbow our way to the many view points. The cliffs looked stunning in the morning light. In Caniçal we passed by a small supermarket which was almost on the way, as this is the last opportunity to get groceries for the entire trek. We turned west and went up the red cliffs and followed the coast for almost all the morning. This is an easy walk, almost flat. Along the cliff, until you hit the Larano cable car. Here we made a sharp turn and it goes steeply up through the forest. On top you pass by a nice picnic spot. Afterwards we followed the signs to Portela, along the levada. In Portela itself you pass by a water tap and some stands where you can buy fruit (great avocado’s!). From Portela you follow the signs to Ribeiro Frio. We set up camp at the forest office at Lamaceiros, which is not an official camp site. It was deserted though and had a good spot to set up a tent, and a lovely picnic spot. The toilets are closed during the night.

Day 3: Lamaceiros to Pico Ruivo. 25km, 1540 hm.

The day started easy, by following the Levada do Furado, all the way to Ribeiro Frio. This village is a popular starting point for several Levada hikes, so it was a bit startling to find ourselves among so many tourists suddenly. There are some cafes there, and as it was time for second breakfast, we enjoyed some sandwiches and pastries. From Ribeiro Frio we only followed the Levada do Furado for a few minutes before turning left and climb up steeply to the forest. Here you’ll find signs to Pico do Areiro and it’s going up all the way. To the peak we had to follow the main road for a bit, and it started to rain. At the peak we had lunch to dry of a bit, and we got lucky: after food the sun came through and we could start one of the most impressive bits of this hike: the peak to peak walk from Pico do Areiro to Pico Ruivo. This well maintained cliff walk shows the rugged peaks in all their glory. It’s up and down, all the way to the highest peak of Madeira. Al the guest house at the top we filled up on water, and camped a couple of minutes away in a nicely sheltered spot.

Day 4: Pico Ruivo to Caramujo. 22 km, 740 hm.

We packed up around sunrise, and followed the route west through the misty mountains. The path goes up and down constantly, and the rain was setting in. It promised to be a wet day. We followed the twisting path down to Encumeada, where there are some cafes. Perfect for some hot coffee and lunch, and to dry off a bit. The hardest part of the day was done, and we continued by following the Levada do Norte. This include some longer dark tunnels, so keep the torch ready. The path in the tunnel can be tricky; narrow, low and slippery. We ended the day at the abandoned house of Caramujo, where we met some fellow hikers. We were all soaked to the bones, and happy that the house provided some form of shelter. Some people even slept on the floor, but we were happy to be in our warm sleeping bags in our tent.

Day 5: Caramujo to Fanal. 17.5 km, 1390 hm.

After a late start, to dry everything in the sun, we followed the dirt road to Estanquinhos. This forest service office also is one of the official campsites and not far from Caramujo. He we turned north to Pico Ruivo do Paul, with great views on the plateau. After an easy start, the most challenging bit of the hike awaited us: steep down to the valley of Seixal, while seeing the wall on the other side of the valley, that we needed to climb up later. You could opt to go down to Seixal, in case you need groceries, but we still had enough food and frankly, we didn’t want to add any more highmeters to the day. After crossing the road in the valley, and filling up on water at taps at the side of the road, we mentally prepared ourselves for the hike up to Fanal. It took us 2 hours and a lot of sweat, but we made it to the top. The view from Fanal is amazing at sunset, and we could see our final destination already down at the coast. We camped here at the picnic site, which even had a tap and a fireplace!

Day 6: Fanal to Porto Moniz. 11km, 200 hm.

We had checked the bus time table before, and decided that we wanted to catch the bus at noon. So we left around 8 am, and made our way down to the city. It was slippery but doable hike, first through the misty forest of Fanal, before reaching civilization again in the village Ribera de Janela. We followed the old coastal road into town, and arrived in Porto Moniz around 11. Plenty of time to watch the waves crash into the rocks, get food and take the bus to Funchal.

Transportation

We started our hike in Machico, but you can take bus 113 from Funchal to the peninsula, the stop is called Baia d’Abra. The bus stops at several towns along the way and only costs 4 euro. Of course there are also taxis for more flexibility.

From Porto Moniz we took the Rodoeste bus back to Funchal, which costed us only 6 euros and the journey takes about 2.5 hours. Please note that there are only limited departures on Saturday and Sunday!

Packlist

• our trusty Hubba Hubba NX tent
• Head torches. The route involves some long and dark tunnels, and you definitely need a torch.
• water filter. As you follow some Levadas and water falls are abundant, we filled up several times a day and filtered the water.
• hiking poles. The hike can be slippery and steep, better to have some extra support. Your knees will thank you.
• grippy shoes. We hikes on trail runners (our preferred option over hiking boots) and we needed the grip. The wet climate makes everything muddy and slippery.
• Rain clothing. There is a reason this island is so green
• Sunscreen. We hiked in march and got roasted. The paths can be very exposed, with some stretches without any shade
• Food: no shopping possibilities for most of the hike, altough we passed by some cafes.